Product was successfully added to your shopping cart.
Top rope auto belay reddit. The minimum age for the Belay-Check is 14.
Top rope auto belay reddit. Possible solutions would be to service the auto belay so the recoil moves with the climber, or to change the carabiner type to one that can not open against someone’s body. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. The device now works better for lead belay, auto-block, rappelling and top rope belay. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A NegativeK • I thought the same thing and I realised it was kinda silly, it's the same for bouldering no one will judge you if you're a beginner, just be aware how many auto belay there are because other people will also use the auto belay. 5 weeks in July for an event and visiting friends (lived there 15 years ago). I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. This is a cool concept but I can see this being a bit of a nightmare in climbing gyms with begginer/intermediates. 7K votes, 163 comments. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Belay Device Advice (haha) Hi, I don't know much about climbing so I apologize. Having someone belaying you and watching makes sure you don't backclip, foot behind the rope, skip clips etc I think this may just be too risky to catch on in most gyms. A day-pass here is $15, with a monthly membership running you at $56 / mo. Could anyone recommend a few places with some bouldering and top rope routes? If they have the auto-belay system that would be great. When I’m belaying with another person, checking everything is automatic because I have to tie in the rope, check the equipment of the belayer, etc. The fact that you wrote all of this on Reddit and explained everything clearly means you are already intelligent and diligent enough to properly belay your kid on top rope in the gym. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. But perhaps they have auto-belays. Overly Enthusiastic Belaying? Anyone have thoughts on belaying that might be helping too much with a climb? I've been climbing (mostly indoor top rope) for about two months, but I don't have a steady belay partner or group so I'm mostly on autobelay. I like lead better, but it’s easier to do the auto belay most of the time. 1. Any advice is much appreciated. I check it anyway, but if i forgot, i would want an auto locker. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t If you’ve got an auto belay system then your already in a great spot. S. You could either lower them slowly so they get a feel of the auto belay or just let go of your brake hands and let the auto belay take them so they feel the full motion of the auto belay. I'm going to install a rope system for belaying. I enjoy top-roping and would like to get a few sessions in while I'm in London. 5. But the people you meet bouldering will be the same people that will belay for you on top rope. Lots of negative comments about auto belays. In this scenario, rather than use the direct belay in guide mode, I would probably rig a re-directed belay with an auto-block "third hand" hitch on my brake strand. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing I know a couple, but they can vary from region to region. , the Petzl attaché has a pear Being fearful of such accidents, I squeeze check the biner, pull check the auto belay rope and sometimes even jump off at 2 meters or so just to make sure I’m clipped in / the system is working. The minimum age for the Belay-Check is 14. Just adding to the discussion: Imagine the crag has walking access to the top. I pretty much never use a rope fatter than 9. Since I'm by myself, I was wondering other than bouldering, where can I go that has a few auto-belays for me. Is it possible to climb an auto belay wall by top roping or lead? In my experience, either the AB cord would get in the way or there wouldn't be any top anchor for top rope climbing, as the auto belay would be there. I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. You bring your rope and biner block or just bowline the rope to the top of the cliff. Any rope 10mm and thinner should be fine in both devices. I'll add/remove springs to match climber weight. Here's what I'm thinking for a homemade auto belay system. There are instructions for leading solo on a grigri online. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. I'm a moderately experienced canyoneer and I've 112 votes, 17 comments. The auto-belay itself is safer than the webbing and rope that comprise the rest of the system. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. i didn't buy it for that purpose or anything, but i had some twisters and some autolockers and i put the twisters on my slings for going in direct and used autos for belaying. Thanks for any info! If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. I wasn’t a huge fan. Climb Asia is somewhere you could go for lead and top rope but do check out the requirements (level 1 license)! New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. I thought I’d like it more than w/ a partner but nope. The Grigri is a more versatile device. An auto belay system also employs a safety rope; however, no partner is involved. I definitely have improved from the first time i top roped since now i can finish all the climbs i try that are within my level and sometimes i can finish a climb As for belaying I would personally top rope on the last climb and top out. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Is this bomber or idiotic? Rope is slung around a sturdy branch. Feb 22, 2020 · Understanding auto belays can be a little unerving if you've not used one before, we cover how they work and how to use them safely. I know 100s of climbers in person, and not a one of them has a problem with auto belays, but go to an online forum and the minority makes their voices heard. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? Climb Central is the only place with auto-belay that i know of - but its right in the middle of a mall and shoppers just stand and watch if that bothers you. The ATC Guide can be tricky lead belaying with thicker ropes, but so does the GriGri which will lock up. Attach a grigri to your belay loop and climb. I'll tie the rope off at the floor. However I would belay off the master point of the anchor over/at the edge to maintain visual with my climber. When rappelling, why would you put a prusik/autoblock below the rappel device instead of above it? On a canyoneering trip this weekend with a buddy who is a proficient climber, he insisted the best way to use an autoblock is below the rappel device on the brake strand, with the autoblock clipped to a leg loop. What are Vertical World’s requirements for passing the Belay Test? A top-rope Belay Check must be passed prior to use of any top-rope or auto-belay systems at Vertical World (VW). Is there anything unsafe about this? don’t have any friends who climb ropes, trying to figure out self-belaying. Lower yourself with the grigri's lever when you want to descend. Slam a carabiner on the anchor, put the rope through it and pull, quick flip of the rope and your partner is on belay, another flip and they're on a clove. E. That being said, I could totally use a climbing buddy if anyone is interested, I can lead climb and all that stuff. Indoor top-rope auto-belay in Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe? Hi all I'll be visiting Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during the summer, and I'd like to visit a few indoor gyms to work off all the food I'll be eating. A belay system keeps climbers safe by connecting them to a safety rope and preventing a fall to the floor. My instructor said to just send it and best top rope/auto belay climbing hi! i might be moving to pittsburgh for school soon and was wondering what gyms are the best for top rope climbing. Hi, I'm based in Singapore but am in London for about 2. A couple of months just before I started rope climbing (had only been bouldering for a few years prior) there was an incident in another gym where the auto belay failed and the person fell to their death. I'm based in grad student digs near Victoria. When I climb all the way up (top rope) and it's time to let go, I realize that I am 15+ meters up and this is the first time that the rope, my knots and the belay are tested. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. By keeping the rope taught and the micro traxion oriented upright the rope feeds through the devices seamlessly. e. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. It’s super convenient to use at bomber bolted belays with a redirect when you’re swinging leads instead of switching from guide mode to direct belay. Weirdly they never explained to the public what it was that caused the failure due to “investigations” but even after that. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. The shorter routes, and not having to yell up a 60 foot wall at your partner is helpful in that aspect. 9 range, one 5. The autobelay shouldn’t be different but lately, it’s becoming more…I don’t know. I am hoping to get a Christmas present for my boyfriend - he needs an ATC belay device? When I google it, I just see the simple belay device where the belayer holds on to the rope and use tension to keep the climber in place. If you make sure to thread the biner correctly when top belaying, there are no safety issues. They are only required to do 2, but she loves it and I’m not going to discourage that. 11 votes, 14 comments. P. and metal work can go through the belay loop. A grigri can fail if oriented upside down. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. Reasons for not liking auto belays. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. A massive central boulder has tons of 15-ft tall bouldering routes, with 14 top-rope and auto-belay routes behind it topping out at around 30ft. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Over and over until you start to trust the gear, systems and belay. Why are you asking reddit if you can self belay at your gym? Ask the people who work at your gym. A traditional belay system involves hardware at the top of the climbing wall that secures the safety rope. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). Thanks! Archived post. Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). Jan 4, 2021 · What Does the Auto-Belay Device Offer? To better understand the value of an auto-belay device, we should briefly highlight a human belayer’s role. Drop the rope off the side. Then go higher. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great Something to be aware of: there's a difference between an auto belay failing due to some design or manufacturing flaw and failing due to wear and tear. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. I once stopped a guy that clipped into the top rope rather than the auto-belay, the route had both. Hi all, I’ll be in Tokyo for 10 days this summer and would like to do a bit of climbing while I’m there. Just wondering what everyone else’s Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. Not sure why. As I’m traveling alone, I would be great to do some rope climbing on my own. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. EDIT: yes, it does look like this was a fixed gear failure somewhere in the system, but that's the exception, not the rule, and I'll be stunned if it was the auto-belay itself and not rope, webbing, lanyard, or metal (bolts, caribiners, etc). If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? So i have been top roping outside since 2023 and usually go 1-3 times a month with my partner who is more advanced than me, however i've always been very scared to try moves higher up and i take a very long time reaching the top. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). I do always wear belay gloves, even when I’m belaying top rope in the gym, because it makes me feel more confident - if something crazy happens I can grab the rope and hopefully hang on. Apparently broke legI just learned why the auto belay was attached to a big piece of canvas that blocked the bottom of the climb. That might be the case here. When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. When used properly, they’re safe, but not perfect for everyone. Any auto-belay climbing gyms in Tokyo? As title, are there any auto-belay gyms in Tokyo? That goes straight into the belay loop. And that’s why I signed up for the class, to help desensitize myself to heights But auto belay? Fuckin awful. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. Don’t be 39 votes, 21 comments. Either way, you get an auto brake-assist on your belay, at the expense of making it harder to escape the belay. If the gym you go to has top rope/auto belay, getting used to higher heights with safety harness may help your comfortability with Boulder walls I’m wondering if practicing on an auto belay (since I have no climbing friends) to build my endurance/stamina and physical strength would be helpful to transition to bouldering? The idea is to have the psychological safety of the auto belay while I get into somewhat decent shape to start bouldering by myself. In my experience, the boulder guys like top roping too, but are in the same situation as you, and need a partner. ). Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. And yes we are scared of falling. Running laps on it will not only build your endurance in a more enjoyable way than circuit boarding, but will also quickly improve your general movement and technique to support the other side of the equation. A fall on autobelay sometimes incurs some unintentional swing, and you don't want to knock someone else off their route. We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. don't use the belay loop with a rope. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Every time I'm belayed by a human, it feels like cheating. As for belaying I would personally top rope on the last climb and top out. Feb 20, 2016 · Unfortunately, for now auto belays aren’t quite that sophisticated. Let us explore some of the pros and cons of auto belays. The Role of a Human Belayer In top-rope climbing, the climbing rope extends from your climbing harness, passes inside an anchor at the summit, and ends back at the belayer’s hands. Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. Some people remove the little tab on the grigri and grind / sand it smooth so the grigri will orient correctly in a fall. Reply reply OhHiHowIzYou • I also posted this in r/Climbing. Is there anything that's relatively easy to reach by public transport? I'm looking for a place with reasonable auto-belay facilities Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect as many points. Apr 24, 2023 · The auto belay provides a controlled descent using magnets, centrifugal force, or hydraulics as a braking mechanism. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). I’ve found a couple of recommendations for bouldering/climbing gyms, bunnies information on how many auto belays they have. While they offer many benefits, there are also drawbacks to using an auto belay. FTR - I have never found rappelling or top belaying to be an issue. Building an outdoor climbing wall. Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I… Then a couple of sites had threads regarding twisting the rope (belayer walks around climber once before starting climb) to create similar friction as wrapping the rope once at the top anchor. I split my time evenly mainly because my daughter is on team, and wants to go to all 4 days of practice a week. I have used the grigri for self belay on top rope a bunch and it seems fine. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 12. The home of Climbing on reddit. And wow do I fuckin hate it It did it’s job tho 😭 after the class I was no where near as scared at committing to more difficult moves higher up on the bouldering wall as I usually am. I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Reply reply SkiMonkey98 • the ‘right’ way to belay I totally agree it's weird to ban Grigris, but you should also 100% be using the 'right' belay technique with your brake hand constantly on the rope, if only to build good habits for when you inevitably end up using an ATC for whatever reason Reply reply thefiendhitman • However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. 8 - 5. That goes straight into the belay loop. The Micros I save for SUPER thin half and twin ropes. And don't hop on an autobelay if someone is already top-roping the immediately adjacent rope unless they are really adequately spaced apart. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. it seems like there are a lot of great bouldering places but i can’t see myself regularly bouldering that often! We have a decent amount of auto belay set up going up to 5. Tie it in an MMO or instantly lower someone if you need. Bizarre it’s not standard This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. Only things I can think of really! Climb easy walls up to highball boulder height and jump off. Auto belay will definitely continue to improve your top rope climbing if you can't go with your partner so just go for it. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. Customers are not allowed to rehearse, practice belay techniques, or climb prior to taking the belay test. Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. They will probably say no tho. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. I tied a prussik around the rope, then tie that into my backpack. Then ask the gym if they'll let you use a lead rope to do mock leads for practice (climb on an auto-belay or top-rope, but take a lead rope with you and clip as you go). In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. The climber is connected to the rope that is connected to the system which automatically raises the rope when the climber ascends, stops if the climber falls and lowers the climber when she or he reaches the top of the climbing wall. The belay loop is the best example. From there I'll attach a progress capture device on the rope and run the top of the rope up through a pulley and attach to some garage door springs. Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. At least that way they might feel more confident knowing they have a top rope backup. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. I definitely have improved from the first time i top roped since now i can finish all the climbs i try that are within my level and sometimes i can finish a climb Here’s my problem, that situation is annoying at best and seems very unsafe at worst. I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. Annual or bi-annual inspections, as required by the manufacturer, involve disassembly, inspection, repair, testing and recertification of the unit. It’s the Reddit effect. It was traditionally used to belay up a second from the top, where the climber side rope is pulling downwards, and you can use your legs to brace yourself again something. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. These are from Guadalajara, Mexico Quick-draws : anillas jugs - cazuelas, cantos (I think Canto is used in Spain as well) mantle - mancle auto belay - yo-yo lead climb - puntear belay - asegurar rope, harness - cuerda, harnés route - ruta / linea one "try" (for a route/boulder problem) - "un pegue" boulder - bulder sport climb I went back to climbing a month after my injury, pre-surgery, and had a couple of ultra painful moments doing very innocuous toe and heel hooks on top rope, that I didn’t think would be an issue. They gently tug you up the route, can’t “take” when you get tired or confused, and lower you to the ground whether you’re falling halfway up or letting go at the top. This prevents slack from building up in the rope, no need to stop and feed it through the devices. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. I use an auto locker for my belay device because it is just an extra layer of safety. Check out the wren soloist. Belay Device Advice (haha) Hi, I don't know much about climbing so I apologize. I think a large radius is important, but make sure it can still fit into the slot otherwise the assisted braking will not work as intended. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. 2 though. iacuohirfbrjfkomzvehlvygfqyohprdfhziwhivfdhlzregprqyf