Belay loop strength. Still, don’t tie yourself in knots with worry.

Belay loop strength. However, the lesser-known history is that of the equipment which makes returning safely from these ascents possible. I was on the big wall Todd Skinner was climbing a few days before his harness belay loop failed from excessive use so having a bomber harness is important. The loop is typically made of nylon or polyester. Dec 18, 2018 · The debate between belaying or rappelling off your belay loop or tie-in points is a real one and it's a question of safety and comfort. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Mar 28, 2025 · The ability to properly tie climbing knots is an essential skill that every climber, regardless of experience or ability, should not only learn, but master. Available in 20cm & 35cm lengths, 22kN strength, EN 566 certified. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. The belay loop is where you attach your locking carabiner and device for belaying and abseiling. This means it can handle forces roughly equivalent to 1,500kg – much more than you should be able to generate in a fall. Technically, that haul loop only needs to be able to withstand the weight of a tagline (a few Remember that weathered tree tat you were eyeing? Or how ‘bout that 20-year-old rope you found sitting in a basement completely unused? Rest assured. Belay loop This loop of webbing is the focal point when belaying your climbing partner. Along with climbing guides Brian Shelton and Jim Waugh, I tested the Mammut tether on over 100 pitches at the Garden of the Gods, Shelf Road, Pikes Peak, Turkey Rocks and other central Colorado crags. Manufacturers prioritize the structural integrity of belay loops to withstand the stress and impacts encountered during climbing maneuvers. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. When I started climbing in 1973, climbers used four basic knots: the Double Clip the bight into the locking carabiner that is clipped into the harness’s belay loop (a vertically oriented, full-strength sewn loop on the front of many harnesses connecting the waist belt to the leg loops) or through the crotch strap and waist belt on harnesses without a belay loop. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. Its vertical orientation allows the carabiner and belay plate to move for smooth belaying. Though Jun 5, 2024 · The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. Our innovative haul loop design integrates into the main waist support webbing. Belay loops must meet the UIAA minimum standard of 15kn. Is the technique they are using safe? Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. The Spectrum Harness has many great features including front stabilizer straps to keep the harness tangle free, a 4,000 lb gear loop and a full strength haul loop. Feature Blending Performace with Comfort The Sonic was designed to be in the middle ground of performance and comfort. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). How to make simple but effective personal tethers for attaching your harness to a belay or rappel anchor when climbing. The downside is that this technique may seriously weaken the knot if you use the inside of the knot as a belay loop. There is more than enough strength even if the krab inadvertently gets loaded sideways. We used the chain in a wide variety of scenarios, including clipping onto bolt anchors Jan 24, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Let’s assume for a second that people are wondering if the haul loop is the same strength as the belay loop (which has a CE requirement of 15kN). 6,000 lb. Extending a rappel offers a variety of advantages, mainly the ability to setup a backup that won’t fail if you were to let go of the rope on rappel. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Apr 11, 2013 · This usually happens when the carabiner somehow shifts, and the gate or the spine side of the carabiner ends up crossing the rope or the belay loop where the carabiner’s strength is at its weakest. This has the advantage of not grabbing your belay loop, which might set up a friction sawing motion if you were to use the sling in an ascender system. There’s a really important nuance involved in climbing gear safety ratings From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. May 17, 2022 · Belay Loop The belay loop is the circular piece of thick webbing connecting to the two hardpoints discussed above. Jul 13, 2024 · Belay loop designs vary in construction and features, with factors such as material selection, stitching techniques, and reinforcement patterns influencing their strength and durability. Harnesses, like all climbing gear, are rated for force rather than weight because of the dynamic nature of their use. I learned Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Understanding the nuances of belay loop design is essential for THE BD EXPERIENCE Welcome to the Black Diamond Experience, an organic presentation of inspirational stories, photos and videos from our athletes, employees and partners. This article also describes some basic differences between belay carabiners, locking carabiners, and non-locking carabiners Jun 3, 2008 · Every climber must work to avoid crossloading carabiners. Apr 7, 2021 · So the belay loop is quite strong and many configurations of attaching to it are safe. Photo: Elliott Natz 3. These recommendations are of necessity general. Oct 1, 2020 · Belaying is a crucial skill in climbing, as your climbing partner is literally putting their life in your hands. John Sherman’s scare with a Dyneema sling failure on a near-static load, which led to Mammut’s test results below, also should serve as a prompt to keep your gear, and yourself, safe. Over a dozen days on the harness I wouldn't expect a replacement from BD. Jan 12, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. e. Jul 22, 2025 · Harnesses: Belay Loop. Or more simply, the belay loop connects the waist belt to the leg loops. 2 knot. Perfect for adventure parks. If you are only using the sling for anchor cleaning, you are fine. Traditionally webbing has been made from nylon or polyester. Enhance your SMART BELAY system with our durable Tie-In Loop. So when people talk about a full-strength haul loop they are inadvertently referring to this standard. It was designed to prevent the very real problem of carabiners getting either side loaded or, more often, tri-loaded when clipped to the harness and leg loops. Warning: You should not tie anything around the belay loop, including a daisy chain or sling. One of the main takeaways should be to keep your belay loop free of material when you are not using it. It is a great choice for programs that need an adjustable climbing harness with a belay/rappel loop. Feature I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. The 9-mm cord is the size preferred by rescuers who use cord for a Load-Releasing Hitch. In the alpine -- especially in a crevasse rescue situation Sep 12, 2023 · This setup is worthy of its own post, but in brief, the extension helps add friction, allows for a full-strength backup off the belay loop, and allows me to go hands-free to untangle ropes or check anchors. Lightweight and extremely packable, the redesigned Couloir is still the harness of choice for mountaineers and skiers on steep snow climbs, short rappels and technical glacier travel, and now features an updated breathable vari-width Dynex monofilament webbing construction and our innovative Infinity Belay Loop. The tie-in points are for connecting your climbing ropes to your harness. But what length tails? Jan 22, 2007 · Todd Skinner’s recent death due to an old belay loop failure was a tragic reminder of the consequences of neglect. ) If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. com Jun 20, 2016 · To be certified by the UIAA, the belay loop on your harness must withstand 15 kN of force (that’s over 3300 lbs) for three minutes, so it’s plenty strong. Climbing history is rich with stories of impressive feats of strength, endurance, and determination. Report on the Breaking of a Girth-Hitched Apr 19, 2022 · We ran the Metolius Safe Tech climbing harness ragged — or tried to — from long, hot bolt clipping sessions to multipitch trad outings. This carabiner is hot forged with a widened spine to prevent the migration of assisted braking belay devices. In the event you lose control of your rappel strands, the hitch will grip the rope and stop you from rappelling further, so long as your rappel device is extended and the hitch is tied correctly. Aptly named, the belay loop is where you attach your belay device when belaying a climber or rappelling. Cord is sold by the foot. There are hundreds of types of knots you can use for climbing, so taking the step to learn them can be daunting. 4 strands is 30kN or does the mechanics not work so simply. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. Belay loop: This is the strongest point on the harness and the only part that is load tested. . Mar 14, 2021 · The next comment is something I have seen many times and provides little to no strength redundancy but can cause some pretty big issues: Temporary or back up belay loops are just not a solution. If you load the loop of the knot it is possible that it will invert, after which you will only have part of the figure-eight remaining. Always read and heed the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions for use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement of equipment. A. Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Sep 10, 2015 · Belay loop: This thick webbing loop is one of the strongest parts of your harness, with a strength rating of around 15kN. Ask any gear manufacturer and they'll recommend that you always connect your belay/rappel device to your belay loop. Step 1: Feed a sling through your belay loop. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. I see people belaying with their carabiner clipped around both tie-in points on their harnesses instead of clipped to the belay loop. KP and the QC Lab crew head to the testing room to answer your age-old question … how strong is it? Jan 17, 2014 · It is well past time to stop citing the Todd Skinner tragedy as any kind of evidence for concerns about belay loop strength. Be aware that it is not recommended to attach any rope/nylon equipment to the belay loop since wear and tear is much quicker through nylon on nylon friction. It might be counterintuitive, but in the case of the number of loads on your locking carabiner, less is more. Is the technique they are using safe? Jun 27, 2025 · In 2006, Todd Skinner passed away at the age of 47 as a leading big-wall free climber in a 500-foot fall in Yosemite. Apr 22, 2025 · This is the standard figure eight; leave it somewhat loose. belay loop and strength rated gear and haul loops. But as a matter of comfort, it is preferable to attach your lanyard to the belay loop. 5,6) After clear communication with the belayer, climber calls for a lower. For any specific piece of equipment, the primary source for all equipment information is the manufacturer. The Metolius All-Around lacks those attachment points but offers great security by having all of the points on the harness built to high strength, including 9kN rated gear loops. And watch for situations where the gate to a carbiner might be compromised. Use it or loose it? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Pay attention to how the carabiner hangs off your harness while belaying or rappelling. S) to the belay loop on your harness due to a significant reduction in strength and wear and tear to your equipment. and metal work can go through the belay loop. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the problem is the carabiner size, why not have a specialist larger carabiner for belaying/abseiling? Nov 2, 2024 · Two belay loops give you more options with daisy chain configurations and are great for any time your harness is loaded in two directions. rated belay loop 3,000 lb. Though Jun 5, 2025 · In climbing systems, we rely on the strength of the belay loop, tie-in points, and waist loop. For example, you can clip a biner just about anywhere and hang from it. If you begin to see this marker appearing, it means your harness should be replaced. Send your project and be comfortable doing it. You can dress the knot appropriately to make it resemble a square knot. For more of our Apr 14, 2023 · You can rig a friction hitch, such as a prusik knot or autoblock, below your rappel device and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. The Black Diamond Experience is where we showcase climbing, skiing and hiking adventures from around the world, plus event news, advocacy efforts and product and technology highlights-all in one dynamic smorgasbord of stoke May 15, 2024 · See the “expert photo” section below. Apr 20, 2015 · The waist belt is comfy and the belay loop is beefy and confidence-inspiring. The belay loop is rated at 25kN, each strand of cord is 7. A great harness for guiding with fully adjustable leg loops and a traditional double pass buckle, 6000 lb. Strength testing a Saltoro harness belay Loop. Webbing is the material that provides the strong and flexible backbone of a harness and ties together all of the weight bearing parts, including the belt, the leg loops, and the belay loop. To your harness belay loop? Or to your 'rope loop'? We tested belay loops because there is gear fear about how safe they are after Todd Skinner's broke in 2006 during a rappel, costing him his life. Find I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. Oct 10, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Run the tail through both tie-in loops (from the top or bottom, doesn’t matter, just make sure to go through both points and NOT the belay loop), and pull the rope tail so the knot sits close to your harness. Two color choices allow you to use a separate color for each length Prusik in a Tandem Prusik Belay System. It is also reinforced and is one of the strongest parts of a harness. We saw so many cases of the rope, carabiner, or belay loop routed incorrectly through the harness tie-in points that we were convinced that the tie-in points must be designed to maintain their strength even if used incorrectly. Carabiner gates present the most common problem. Use your belay loop to ensure that the load is on the spine. Taken together, the UIAA standard, the BMC recommendations, and the manufacturer’s instructions provide a Mar 15, 2016 · Introduction American climbers currently learn to belay from professional climbing instructors and guides, from formal and informal mentors, and an increasing number learn to climb in indoor/artificial climbing structures and facilities. And does having only one knot lower the strength? And I'm leaving the original sewn loop on anyway. It is nice that the points where the harness wears the most are reinforced and the full-strength trail line loop is easy to clip. It was a locker on the gym auto-belay, just didn’t get it fully through the loop (my fault) one time and semi-closed on the loop itself causing the abrasion. From a safety and strength perspective, there is no risk in tying in with a figure-eight knot or a bowline knot on the belay loop instead of to the two tie-in points. Two slings girth hitched to either the tie-in loops or the belay loop (don't leave it attached to the belay loop permanently; that causes uneven wear on the belay loop which can weaken it prematurely), one to each bolt, are a popular choice. Aug 10, 2016 · MSRP: $39. Photo: Elliott Natz 4. Of course, I don't think there is a record of someone being killed by one of these scenarios, and now - tragically - a failure of a belay loop has killed someone. A helpful tutorial on carabiner strength ratings and why they are important. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you find the best belay carabiners that you can rely on while you’re focused on belaying. May 17, 2022 · A belay loop must hold a 15 kN of force or more in order to be safety certified. If you have any doubts about the dependability of your harness, retire it and get a new one. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete Belay Loop If you're placing an autoblock on your belay loop, you have to make sure and extend your belay device when rappeling (using a sling or something like the Metolius PAS). I have considered cloving in loosely to the masterpoint at the top, running the rope under my leg to a locker cloved into my haul loop (full strength). Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. May 19, 2013 · 1 Strength. Some harnesses, like the Metolius Safe Tech, also include rated haul loops and gear loops. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. Some harnesses feature an integrated wear safety marker in the belay loop. In this article, we will turn our attention to the Jan 11, 2012 · For top roping, there is nothing wrong with clipping onto a screwgate directly to your belay loop, strength wise. g. Harnesses that would be used as loaners to climbing partners had the lowestleg-loop strength and tied for the highest average belay-loop strength. The C. Anytime you retire a piece of gear, destroy it to prevent future use. You can do a direct belay with a self-braking belay device but not an aperture belay device. (And the poster who suggested "several deaths" was, of course, unable to come up with any others. Aug 27, 2020 · I think that in that respect the leg loop provides a high degree of safety while not being foolproof: only slightly less (arguably) than the belay loop method, which isn't foolproof either - of course, it's not 100% guaranteed to grip when hands free wherever you put it. 95 BUY NOW The Mammut Belay Chain is a beefy personal tether composed of interlocking sewn loops. Oct 27, 2006 · The belay loop was NOT designed for convenience. Below I do my best to answer a few of these questions, while most likely actually posing more questions, as well as provide some super-unofficial non-complete A guide to where you should attach your belay plate. My ultimate question back to them is Why does it matter? Haul loops on harnesses are made for exactly that reason—to tag or haul a line, hence the name. Apr 17, 2019 · The belay loop is extremely strong so it can withstand all the energetic forces of climbing, including severe falls. Jun 5, 2024 · The PAS allows a climber to setup their rappel device on one of the PAS loops, extended away from their harness belay loop. I feel belay-loop strength is still a relevant subject and wanted to bring it back to everyone's attention, especially since I still get emails from people asking me about belay loop strengths and when they should retire a harness. In our series on innovations in climbing equipment we have discussed belay devices, rock protection, and climbing helmets. Air offers a unique slot on the belay loop to keep the carabiner from moving and becoming cross loaded during use. P. Pretty sure the double fisherman's bend is the best choice. Aug 31, 2023 · Harness Webbing Though we don’t always see it, the material that makes up the bulk of the harness strength and support is the webbing. Nov 11, 2008 · The upside of this is that it can clean up the knot. M. Anything hard should attach to the belay loop (e. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs A rock climbing harness has to hold a minimum of 15kN of force (~3,300 lbs of force) with the belay loop, and 10kN (or ~2,200 lbs of force) with the waist belt in order to be certified by the UIAA. The belay loop is a full-strength-part of the harness, which means it is rated for any climbing related weight and force. Below are some photos of the different belay loops I tested (before they were pulled to failure) and their tested values. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. The belay loop is the strongest point of a climbing New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. The test result of the Load at Peak came up to 26kN which is way higher than the required UIAA standards. Aperture belay devices simply provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. The belay loop is always found in the front center of the harness. rated gear loop Full-strength haul loop Quick adjust buckles throughout Standard: (44" Max), Extra Large: (56" Max) The girth hitch (Larksfoot) is used for: - Attaching slings to your belay loop - Attaching slings together. The Gatekeeper is a very easy to use belay/rappel 'biner that keeps the carabiner properly aligned on the belay loop to help prevent cross loading. 3,4) Climber then unties her tie in knot and pulls the tail through the chains. They are not strong at all compared to the belay loop itself. Belay loops are burly strong. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. P. Still, belay loops have been known to fail, especially if they are old and worn, so always back it up to create redundancy in your chain of safety if you have any doubts about the loop's strength and integrity. Tips It is not recommended to girth hitch your slings to bolts, or your personal anchor systems (P. S. See full list on theclimbingguy. Some people will appreciate the other Safe-Tech features. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. One of the first QC Labs we ever did was about belay loops: QC Lab: Strength of Worn Belay Loops As far as the CE standard for harnesses go, there is no belay loop specific test, rather the belay loop is in the full harness system during testing and must withstand 15kN. For example, if you are ascending a rope, you can have your top ascender attached to one belay loop and your backup knots attached to the other belay loop. You can use a girth hitch with a figure 8 for canyoneering. Jul 8, 2013 · Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. Simple, adjustable and clean. While there is general competence with belay related skills The Spectrum harness has a quick adjust waist and leg loop buckles. Just tie another belay loop in (9/16" webbing) and carry on. Discover our collection of climbing harnesses designed with a focus on belay loop strength and safety. This way, if he falls at the top, my harness takes the weight of the fall and not my sack. , a locking carabiner while belaying or rappelling). Aug 3, 2023 · The belay loop plays a vital role in the safety and functionality of the climbing harness. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. To attach your belay device to your harness, you need a locking carabiner, and some are better for the job of belaying than others. Please see the table below for maximum lengths available for order. The Infinity is for the client that just keeps going and going and…Standard: Blue belay loopX-Large: Black belay loop Feb 20, 2020 · 2) Climb a ties a figure 8 loop and clips it to her belay loop with a locker. 5kN. Saving on weight while maintaining strength and ease of use. Each harness in this selection offers unique features tailored to enhance your climbing experience, whether you're a seasoned pro or just beginning your adventure. Nov 22, 2021 · Do climbing harnesses ever fail? Likewise, harnesses that had held 20 or more falls annually broke at the leg-loop strap at 3,306 pounds, while those with fewer than 10 falls per year broke at 4,409 pounds. I can have the link between the haul loop and master point fully tightened so I don't go anywhere. ) Features include the locking speed buckle (never slips or loosens), four high-strength gear loops (xs has two), high-strength haul loop, full-strength belay loop and reinforced tie in points. Still, don’t tie yourself in knots with worry. deruie rtkrm yudrkp reqrb vzwzjsqy ktmj joqv cpk bvk xwdqkv